Untold Tales from a Food Writer's Tasty Past

An apple pie for Joel Grey, harsh feedback on lettuce preferences, eating gourmet chocolates with the French chef who crafted them. Also, insider info on strawberry-rhubarb pie, too much port for one afternoon, the joys of golden kiwi revealed. Oh, and a frozen pork chop.

These highlights from my days as a newspaper food writer and later, a restaurant critic, bubbled up after I mentioned to a friend that I now have a dream job. Read on.

Just over a year ago, a gifted caterer (justeatitsf.com) who pivoted to home delivery service because of the pandemic needed a writer/editor to help with web copy, email blasts and social media posts. At the time, I needed to revive my waning interest in cooking or resign myself to eating food primarily prepared at the local grocery.  

When she said she wasn’t sure she could afford to hire me, I asked if she would feed me in exchange for help with words — and she agreed! I’ve been well fed (and happy) ever since. Let’s hear it for bartering! 

Here's a photo from my Thanksgiving meal last year:

Feast now on some of the highlights (and delicious lowlights) from my past:

Interviewing Chef Pierre Franey as we sipped fresh banana malts at a local eatery.

A disgruntled restaurant owner who tried to get me fired because I wrote that I didn’t hate iceberg lettuce. (I do hate frisée, but no one cares.)

Hearing from home cooks I’d featured in the newspaper that they’d laminated and framed the articles and hung them on their kitchen walls. 

A sly restaurant owner who told me he had a special menu for regular customers, and then got angry when I wrote about that.

Struggling to cut into a pork chop at a restaurant I was reviewing — it was frozen. 

Sampling a box of Chef Michel Guérard’s new line of gourmet chocolates while I interviewed him. 

Choking down a tuna roll at an interview with a sushi chef because I am not (and never will be) a fan of raw fish. The photographer with me deftly palmed his, slipped it into his jacket pocket (eww…) and told the chef it tasted great. 

A distinguished restaurant owner who indicated he had recognized me by first kissing my hand, then starting up my arm.  

Holding a Pie Baking Party with friends so I could learn to bake an apple pie. I wrote a story that included all the recipes. (After some practice runs, I did manage to make one perfect apple pie, which I delivered to Joel Grey at the theater where he was performing in “Cabaret.” He liked that pie so much, he told me to quit my day job.) 

Learning from a restaurant owner what goes into the price of a meal, including the ingredients, the prep time, the rent or mortgage, the gas and electricity bills, linen service, salaries — it’s amazing we don’t pay more!

Getting a personal call from a favorite chef every spring when he was making strawberry-rhubarb pie. 

An arrogant restaurant owner who told me he didn’t want anyone over 35 eating at his place, and then got angry when I wrote about that. 

Hearing a restaurant/bar owner’s story about the night Allen Ginsberg came in, sat in front of the fireplace and recited from his poem “Howl.”

Taking heat from a deli owner who flinched when I asked if he had any lean pastrami. (Still sorry!)

Trying to sober up fast in order to drive home safely from a port tasting.

Following a truck on an unfamiliar road and suddenly realizing I was in line at a highway weigh station instead of on an exit ramp. (At least we hadn’t eaten yet!) 

Interviewing food writer and self-described “fruit detective” David Karp, who informed me at length about some of the 40 known varieties of kiwi. (If you haven’t yet, try the golden — tastes like sunshine!) 

Finding my review proudly posted alongside other favorable coverage in a restaurant’s bathroom. 

Yep, those were the days! I also remember abandoning my restaurant beat for a week on September 11, 2001, so I could be back on the streets reporting the news. I told my editor: “I am not writing this week about whether I liked my salad.” 

I treasure the hundreds of interviews with restaurant owners, chefs, wine mavens, cookbook authors and also the readers in metropolitan St. Louis who willingly shared their recipes. I met so many interesting people, and I learned so very much over the years. 

And that’s why today I’m able to work for food!

P.S. Bonus: I also write for a Master Mixologist (msquaredspirits.com) whose posh craft cocktails are now available in 39 states. He shows up at my door now and then with alcoholic rewards!